"CANNING STOCK ROUTE - July, 2007.
Trip Leader – Dean

Participants were:- David J, Brian and Barbara K, Stephen N, Jan, Trish, Anissa, Tarina and Liarna W,
 Martin and Sue W, Vin & Helen B (South Australia), and David & Jenny H (Queensland).

It was a 10am meeting on Friday 29 June for four of the group at the Bindoon Bakery, but the B’s and K’s were an hour late. It was partly Dean’s fault for he had an electrical fault in powering his PC and advised Brian he could be a little late arriving.

That night, the Hope’s joined the group of four at Kirkalocka Station. It was the usual friendly welcome from the Pilkington family who joined us in the traditional “Happy Hour”.

The next day we departed about 8:30am and headed into Mt Magnet. First stop was the General Store for forgotten supplies and the Camping Shop for a sleeping bag – Dean left his at home. From here we paid a visit to The Granites. It was the first time a number of us had visited this area and found it quite interesting, but disappointing that camping has now been disallowed.

Then on to Sandstone for lunch. We had planned to travel to Wiluna via Lake Mason. A quick visit to Snow (of VKS 737 fame) informed us that the road had not been maintained for a number of years and was very overgrown. On hearing this, we decided to approach Wiluna on the blacktop via Leinster. The Caravan Park was free for the night. The happy hour that night gave an indication all were going to have a fun time on the trip.

We broke camp reasonably early on the Sunday and arrived at Wiluna just before mid-day. Martin and Sue were easily found, and soon after Jan, Trish and the three girls soon caught up with us all. We visited the Pioneer Cemetery, and then went looking for the current cemetery. We all drove past it not seeing it, and after five kilometres decided to return to Wiluna. We did find it on our return. Stephen arrived while we visited the Cemetery. After visiting a number of graves, some of importance to the CSR, we returned to the General Store for refuelling and our last ice creams. Dean registered our trip with the Wiluna Police.

After a quick lunch, we left Wiluna and headed for Well 1. It was quite an interesting well with an old windmill. The surrounding area was bushy and the grass was quite green from recent rain. Then on to North Pool for our first night on the CSR. We all set up, had happy hour and just after dinner while sitting around the fire, it started to rain.

Monday morning saw us all packing up in the heavy drizzling rain. The plan was to reach a camp just short of or just past Windich Springs. This did not eventuate, and we camped just short of Well 4a. On arriving at Well 2, we were greeted with a sign on the tank “Jesus is coming soon”. One person who will remain nameless, said “I hope he brings the fuel to Well 23”. The tank was full, and the troughs were full as well.

Soon after we left Well 2, the wildflowers were beginning to become evident. On arriving at Well 2a, The Granites, it started to become overcast again. The Well was full and it made it difficult to see the workmanship that went into making this well. We found the Royal Australian Survey Corps marker and the Paine and Allsop marker. The marker was found near many other wells and all were in poor condition. Further on the track to Well 3, we came across quite a number of Mini Ritchie barked trees or Red Mulga. It was the most impressive I have seen and it fascinated the eastern states members on the trip.

Well 3 is a credit to the Foothills Four Wheel Drive Club. The restoration was outstanding. The water did not appear that good, and there were many frogs about. Here we spent some time working out which way to go. The OziExplorer track suggested a track that could barely be seen. After plenty of searching and discussion, we decided to take the new and more defined track. It headed east for a time and then headed north. After an hour driving, it met up with the original track, west of Well 3a. We did not visit Well 3a. It started to rain and did not look like letting up, so we searched for a possible camp site. About 4:15pm we found a reasonable spot and the rain had eased so we set camp. It was miserable night, happy hour was missed, and most took shelter in their tents.

Next morning, rain was still persisting, so we packed up in the wet. We had planned on a late start, but because we did not make our target yesterday, we left about 8:30am. Radio contact with VKS 737 was that the track was closed between the Granites and Well 5. We were in-between both. We later learnt that the message should have been the track between Well 5 and Granite Peak Station was closed. Kennedy Creek crossing was dry and was easy to cross. We soon came to Well 4a. This well was interesting in the fact it used a tree for its Whip, otherwise in poor condition. Some water was in the well, but quite a way down. Next stop was Windich Springs. We spent some time there and investigated the rock wall where it has been suggested that these walls have gateways to let animals in to drink, and on exit would be killed by Aborigines for food. The area was quite pretty with the gums lining the banks. On leaving the Spring, we came across what appeared to be a brush cattle yard.

Next stop was well 4b, a little worse for ware. The timbers were rotting and the trough was overgrown. There was a little water in the well itself. The bucket had several holes in it.

Well 5 was fully restored and looked in good shape. The tank behind was a bit worse for ware. Water was quite a way down. Another P.A. sign was close by. We left the CSR here and headed to the Carnarvon Ranges for three days.

Taking the track from Well 5, brought us along the ridge of breakaways on the south and north sides. The view was quite spectacular. We could have spent more time there going to the bottom of the breakaways – perhaps next time. Further along, we came to a bore and windmill. The well had a wooden ladder down in it, but was in poor condition. There was some water at the bottom. We did not come across any evidence of the Blue Hill Station unless it was situated at this site.

We approached Serpents Glen about four in the afternoon, and the sun on the surrounding hills made a bright red glow. The next day all except the Queenslanders headed north to Talbot Rock Hole, Virgin Spring and Waterfall Rock Hole. We were given a GPS reading regarding Aboriginal Stones, but were unable to locate them. The description of the area was near some gums and creek bed. The track was quite a distance from both and we did not venture to search for them. Approaching Talbot Rock Hole, a creek was running slightly, and the pools on each side of the track looked very clear. Some of us stocked up with water here for showering. The Rock Hole was full and quite sloshy as we walked in. The waterfall at the back of the hole was not flowing.

Next stop was Virgin Springs. Here we climbed the cliffs and went in search for the spring. There was water flowing, and we followed the source. We do not believe we found the actual spring, as the flow of water went on for some distance – kilometres. On giving up, we decide to have lunch before moving on.

From here we headed West/North West to Waterfall Rock Hole. On walking up a gully, we came across a pool with the evidence of a waterfall behind it. On reaching the top, we found a pool of water at the rim of the fall. With hands, and even a hat, we panned water from that pool to make the water fall flow. On our return we took the shortest route back to camp. There is a section of quite overgrown track, which in a few years, one will not be able to travel on, and instead will have to return by a track further east between Talbot Rock Hole and Virgin Springs.

The next day, everyone did their own thing. We all at some stage walked the gorge behind our camp. There was a section of the gorge face that had worn in such a way as to form a bridge. Stephen and Dean went back to a section of the track to find a cave and a grotto – waypoints given by Colin Pattinson. We believe we found both, but not the large eagles nest. It is evident that fire has passed through this area recently.

A late start the next day, we returned via the northern road into Blue Hills to the CSR just a few kilometres north of Well 5. We arrived early afternoon at Well 6 (Pierre Spring). Here we all replenished our washing water for the next few days. In addition, most of us showered. Late in the afternoon, a tag-a-long group from Victoria came along. They spent a few minutes with us, and the most interesting piece of information from them was that Savory Creek crossing was dry. There were nine vehicles in the group.

Next morning it was an early start, with the first stop not far down the track, Ingebong Hills. It was quite an interesting spot, with all climbing to the top and placing a rock on the carne. There was a small amount of Aboriginal art at the base of the hill. About seven kilometres from Pierre Springs we came across a herd of camels. This group was more interested in us than moving on.

Next stop was Well 7. The well itself was in poor condition, with very poor mater. The surrounding area was quite pleasant and we stopped for morning tea.

Well 8 was in a little better condition. It was very deep and dry. The troughing was quite overgrown.

At well 9 we had a welcoming party of “bully beef” as Len Beadell would call the cattle. In addition there were many finches and a few budgies. Cattle yards and a mill have been placed here for the cattle and the water was quite good. Other birds visited the area while we were there, including an Emu with her chicks. The P.A. post was near the well. Only a few noticed the stone fort at the beginning of the track up to the well.

Then on to Well 10, which was in a sorry state. The well itself was quite deep, and a little water could just be seen. Not far away was a notice to travellers.

At Well 11 (Goodwin Soak), murky water was only a couple of meters down. Finches were abundant. At the foot of the troughing we came across a dead cow. Just a little way on, we came to Lake Aerodrome. The lake was solid on the edge, but a little soft as one walked towards the centre. Vin decided it was a good place to take a sun bake on.

At Well 12, we found the water slightly warm and quite good. Vin and Brian took on water for showering. Not far from here we came across the first burnt out wreck, a Land Rover. Vin took a great deal of interest in it, trying to determine if the engine conversion plate was one he made. Conclusion was he did not.

Well 13 was the next stop. Just a depression in the ground, being overgrown by Spinifex. It appeared that at some stage it had been fenced off.

Well 14 was well hidden amongst bush, but clearly marked at the end of the troughing with a skull and crossbones. The Well itself is now just a depression in the ground. Between this well and Well 15 we paused at a lookout for a few moments. The Ward Hills could be seen in the distance. We all contributed to a small carne at the top.

Well 15 was the next stop, a restored well with very clear water not too far from the top. Troughs were filling up with dirt and Spinifex was starting to take over. A 44 gallon drum was close by, placed on a fire as though an attempt was made to make a “Donky”. A few meters from the well is an abandoned trailer that did not make the distance. Only one of a number we sighted on the trip. A plaque in memory of Joseph Wilkins is nearby. Along the track from here there was quite a lot of wild holly. Bustards were started to be sighted quite regularly from here. A stop at Murray Rankin’s trolley was made.

Well 16 was the next stop. A bit worse for ware, and the shaft has started to cave in. Now on to the Calvert Range.

The journey in became a bit slow with Brian having a little trouble with the sand dunes. It was a interesting to the extent the scenery changed and a challenge was given to find Sunday Well. We were unsuccessful, but the GPS co-ordinance indicated a spot in the middle of the track along side a dry salt pan. We arrived a little late at our destination, but set up camp and enjoyed a lively happy hour. Next morning we explored rear breakaway to the left of camp, finding only a little Aboriginal art. We set off to circumnavigate the range about 9:30am. We believe we found Calvert’s cave, along with some more art. We ventured in at every chance we could to explore the nearby cliffs. In addition, we travelled down the track to Constance Headland about 15 kilometres checking all tracks into the hills. The Aboriginal paintings were seen in all instances. We returned to camp approximately 3:30pm.

Next morning we planned to leave about 9:00am for Durba Springs. Martin had packed up early and ventured to the gorge to the right of camp. Here he found quite a bit of art, considered to be the best so far. At this stage everyone had packed up and ready to go. A decision was made that whoever wanted to could spend time discovering this area while others headed to Durba Springs. Dean took the latter group, while Stephen escorted the rest two hours later. Photos of art in this area is in the library on DVD as Photos by Martin and Sue White. There is no video.

Both groups on their way to Durba Springs stopped off at Canning’s Cairn. Jan and Dean tackled the climb directly up the cliff at the face of the cairn. Others went to the rear vehicle parking and followed the small cairns up, a much easier walk. All who made it to the top, placed a stone on the cairn. Neither group went into Biella, as requested by the CSR permit. The first group arrived at Durba Spring at lunch time and the second about 90 minutes later. Washing was the order of the afternoon although some explored the gorge walls around the camp.

Next morning most ventured into the gorge behind the camp. It was extremely difficult to climb the area along side the water fall at the gorge end. It was a warm day, and Dean saw two snakes on the return to camp. In the afternoon, three vehicles went looking for wood??? The track into Well 17 looked well used and recently. A track to the right on leaving Durba Spring was well used, but came to dead end. At this point, plenty of dead wood was found. Durba Springs was where Brian started having battery trouble.

Next morning we set out towards Diebil Hills. Brian needed help to start his vehicle. We did not venture to the spring itself. The track in was quite corrugated but the scenery was well worth it. At the top of one sand dune, a sole camel was sighted. Dean was fortunate to see a number (about 10) bustards take off.

On to Well 18. This well has been restored and contained good water. Vin and Brian took on water for washing.

Not far from Well 18, we visited Terrace Hills and Onegunya Rock Hole. Finches were plentiful giving voice to their disapproval of us intruding. Some art was found on the rocks surrounding the Rock Hole.

On to Well 19, it was amongst bush and in a sorry state. It was in ruins and a depression in the ground was the only evidence of a well. In the centre of the depression was a small drop of water.

Next stop was Savory Creek. The crossing was dry, but water was pooled in it closer to Lake Disappointment. It was from here that signs appeared on the northern approaches to lakes but not on the south entrances. Not far from the northern exit, we went behind a small dune and found a number of trailers that did not make the whole journey along the CSR.

We did not visit Well 20, for all reports were that it was quite deteriorated and could take over an hour return trip. So on to Well 21. This well was in a little bit better condition than Well 19. The shaft was just in tact and a little water was seen to be in the well.

At Well 22, the shaft had caved in or dug out, and about two metres down, the metal lining could be seen. The well cap was along side the lining. David, on travelling around the well, nearly put his rear right wheel into the well. Approximately half way from here to Georgia Bore a Kluger was on the track burnt out.

At Georgia Bore, there were quite a few camped. We found an area and set up for the night. Dean and David Hope scouted and collected wood from the track headed west to Cotton Creek. Everyone took on water, showered thanks to Stephen, and some washed clothes. It was a pleasant spot. At night the Pink and Greys looked for water around the Bore pump. It was the Finches and Budgies turn in the morning.

In the morning Brain’s battery decided to die completely. Most of us moved out at 8:00am for the Well 23 fuel dump for refuelling while Brian replaced his battery with Vin’s second battery.

We had news via the VKS 737 network that the community at Kanawarritji was closed. This gave us some concern for we had only ordered 100 litres each at the Well 23 drop. Stephen contacted the Capricorn Road House via Rad phone and we were able to get a further three drums, giving everyone 200 litres each. Some confusion was created when the owner of one of the extra drums that we had been allocated arrived. He was over a week late arriving to collect his fuel. Another call to the Capricorn Road House resolved the matter in which they allocated us another drum.

One more problem needed to be resolved. Would Brian and Vin risk going to Kanawarritji and hope it was open and have a battery, or track out to Newman via Cotton Creek. Vin was not happy in proceeding any further on one battery, even if both their frozen food was carried by others. The decided to take the Newman option. The convoy now became six in number.

All the farewells were made at Well 23 and the convoy headed to Well 24. This well was full and overflowing. Plenty of finches were nearby. The water was quite murky. The surrounding hills were quite interesting.

Then on past Windy Corner and after stopping for a herd of camels, we came to Well 25. This well was dry and quite dilapidated. Between Well 25 and 26 the scenery changes once more and a number of different variety of wildflowers were found. Another abandoned trailer was sighted.

Well 26 was restored, but the water did not appear that good. A plaque of Alfred Wernham Canning was at the sight of the well. We camped approximately 10 kilometres from Well 26 near a breakaway. A few spots of rain occurred over night, nothing too serious. Slate Range was not far from our camp.

We took a closer look at the range and Martins comments were quite informative regarding its structure. From here to Well 27.

This well had water but no covers on the top to keep out dust and other debris. Troughs and surrounding structure was in disrepair.

From here, past Helen Hill and the track to Separation Well, across more dunes, we came to Well 28. This well was only a depression in the ground, a small hole dug in the centre of it. Two water recovery buckets stood close by. Well 29 was in a similar state.

Then on to Thring Rock. We did the circumnavigation of the rock, during which Jan and Stephen climbed to the top and placed a rock on the cairn.

Well 30 was another depression in the ground with ruins surrounding it. From here we visited Mujingerra Cave. No one ventured down and into the cave. Wells 31 and 32 were much the same as Well 30.

On to Kanawarritji Community. The track had extreme corrugations. At the turn off into Kanawarritji, the track became wide and very well maintained. The phone box at the corner was damaged and phone not working. The Community was open and had spare batteries. Here David and Jenny (the Queenslanders) discovered they had both front shockers leaking oil. They decided to leave the convoy here and head to Port Headland for repairs. David had only one spare front shocker. David James noticed his front shockers were leaking as well. He decided to push on, as the leaks were not severe.  A few showered at Kanawarritji and topped up with some fuel. We all bought some sort of treat, the most common were ice creams. We camped at Well 33. Trish did some washing. Some took on more water here. We assisted a group doing repairs by supplying spanners and sockets. It was a group of nine vehicles from Victoria and New South Wales, and we promptly gave them the nick name Mexicans. We tagged them from here to Wolfe Creek Crater.

In the morning, Martin sighted a dingo leaving our camp. This day was a slow day. We would take regular breaks to let our shockers cool. Wells 34 and 35 were just depressions and in ruin. At Well 35 we came across the Mexicans again, who were camped alongside a row of well used and broken shockers. There were broken spring leafs as well.

Well 36 is in a salt bed. The well itself is surrounded with reeds while there are numerous paperbarks in the salt bed. The water was not far from the top of the well. On our way to Well 37 we collected firewood.

We camped just short of Well 37 under desert oaks. David and Jan changed David’s front shockers.

Next morning it was a short distance to Well37. It was a bit tricky to find, for there were tracks everywhere. The well was covered with two sheets of wrought iron. Water was not far down and looked dirty. We found the graves of Shoesmith and Thomson as well as Chinaman’s. There was another grave, that of John McLennon.

Between Wells 37 and 38 we came across a small cave. We came to some breakaway country and then Well 38. It was to the side of the track in a gully. It had Native markings at the back of it.

Then on to Well 39. It was in ruin and partly overgrown. The Mexicans had left a message there for all Eagles and Dockers supporters – “Collingwood forever”.

Next stop was at Tobin lake. The interest here was the large ant hills. The track between the sand dunes prior to and after Well 39 was extremely corrugated. Martin did the left rear shocker in along this section.

At Well 40, the lake looked inviting, but a closer look revealed a green smelly lake. Plenty of birds were about including ducks. The well is still under water. We sighted Michael Tobin’s grave and then headed for Well 41.

Well 41 is in a salt pan and is restored. The water was slightly dirty. We had set up camp on the track into Well 41. Martin had his left rear shocker replaced by David’s spare. It fitted and did the job, but rattled a little.

Well 42 is overgrown and has a few pools of water around it and in ruin. There were plenty of finches about and reasonably lush in its surrounds. Then across Guli Lake and we sighted quite a number of camels.

Well 43 was just a deep depression in the ground and dry. Nearby was a small salt lake, dry as well. In the lake was another well, recently constructed with drums. This had water. By this time, Stephen had realised he had damaged engine mounts. He did not mind the corrugations, but rough sand dunes were giving him trouble. His worst fears were about to happen.

About 10 kilometres from Well 43 we headed north. The next 27 kilometres we experienced numerous sand dunes, doubles and triples. Stephen struggled in this area and was not the happiest member of the group. We did have south bound traffic in this area, and the UHF communication on channel 40 was extremely beneficial. When we turned east, all was well.

Twelve kilometres later we reached Well 44, another well in ruin. Troughs were all filled in and Spinifex growing in it. Someone had dug a hole about 18 inches deep and placed a Mt Franklin water bottle in it.

A stop at Pijellinge Clay Pan and on to Gravity Lake. There was plenty of muddy water in it, but not salty. No one ventured to drive through the centre of the lake, we all travelled around to the right to the other side.

We camped at Well 45. There was ample wood for the fire just short of the well, and Dean found quite a large branch just behind the well. In the morning, two camels were sighted coming over the sand dune to the south. A bird visited the camp and took pickings from the dead fire. It was fascinating to watch.

On leaving the camp for Well 46, and just a short way down the track, we came across quite a number of bustards both in flight and on the ground. Well 46 is restored. Water was good and some took it for washing. Dean had problems with the cars electrics, resulting in a chip in his navigation computer burning out – no more Ozi Explorer. The HF and UHF radios went out as well, but on pulling out and reinserting the accessory fuses, all was OK. Possible they came loose over the corrugations. We also met up with a few of the Mexicans again.

We travelled into Well 47 and found it had all caved in and only a depression in the ground remained.

Then on to the Breaden Hills. On our way we stopped at a hill in the centre of the track. We drove to the top and then down the other side. Our approach to Breaden Hills was at an interesting time of day. The sun was in the west and the hills glowed a bright red. We spent an hour in the hills visiting Breaden Pool and Godfrey’s Tank. At Godfrey’s Tank, we came across evidence of fossils. Very little water was in Breaden Pool and was quite smelly.

Well 48 was a depression in the ground, and the troughing etc was in ruin. Here we met up with a group of four vehicles we had met very early in our trip going north, but now heading south.

Just before Well 49, we came across the infamous Ford Explorer. Most items are still there. Another message was left by the Mexicans. At Well 49 we set up camp for the last time on the CSR. We had decided to travel out to Fitzroy crossing the next day. The exception was Stephen who decided he would go to Halls Creek. Well 49 was restored and reasonable water was found. The camp on the opposite side of the track was like a maze but quite pleasant. A number of us had showers this night.

Our track from Well 49 to Well 50 was lined with Desert Oaks in many places. Well 50 is off the main track a bit and in an open area. It was in ruin and the well itself has collapsed. When wet, it would be extremely difficult to enter the last bit of the track.

The windmill at Well 51 can be seen at a short distance before arriving. On our approach two brolgas were seen. We did not believe they would be out this far, but the lakes north of We;; 51 had plenty of water in them. Other bird life was seen as well. Well 51 has the windmill and a man made dam along side it. A trailer in excellent condition was behind the dam.

The track across the lakes from well 51 was corrugated and was not long before David broke a cross bar in his roof rack. It was the bar that was holding his sixth wheel. The wheel was relocated, the bar removed and we pushed on.

We arrived at the Billiluna Community, had a quick look round, and stoped just outside on the CSR to inflate our tyres a bit more. Jan and Trish re-entered the community to see if they could find the station homestead. They were unsuccessful.

On to Wolfe Creek Crater. The road was a lot easier to drive and it was welcomed. The track into Wolfe Creek was good for most of the way. A small section by the homestead was quite corrugated. The Crater was, to me, quite spectacular for I had not seen it before. We spent a short time here and then headed for Fitzroy Crossing. Stephen stayed a little longer.

The track to the blacktop was quite good, but plenty of cattle was seen and care had to be taken. The blacktop to Fitzroy Crossing was travelled mainly in the dark, and care had to be taken for cattle and wild animals. We arrived just after 7:00 pm.

The trip was a pleasure to run. The participants were friendly and all fitted in and contributed to most enjoyable trip. Thanks to Stephen for the use of his shower tent. Every one was very appreciative of that. Everyone helped each other out when needed.

What would I do differently if there was a next time? Firstly I would insist on dual batteries for every vehicle. Secondly, I would encourage to the point of nearly insisting a full set of shockers be carried as replacements. Finally, in my preparation I would possibly allow two extra days, spaced within the trip, so that if a spot was found to be of interest to all, we could spend extra time.

We had only one flat tyre all trip, and that was a very slow leak. We all prepared well in this area.

As to permits. Four Wheel Drive Australia issues the CSR permits. I know we were one of the first groups to obtain the permits, some difficulty was experienced in receiving the printed form. We have advised them of this problem. As to visiting the Calvert Range, I applied in March for a permit and had to chase it up myself as late as two weeks before we left. We were only permitted to travel there because we attempted to do the right thing. Thanks to Sue Davenport from WDLAC for this permission. Perhaps a definite plan can be in place before limiting traffic into such areas. There are no signs on the CSR indicating one is not allowed to visit certain areas and the travellers we spoke to were confused regarding this issue.

As to safety, we came across two separate instances of overseas travellers without UHF radios. I am glad we did not meet them in the dune areas. There were a number of one vehicle travellers on the CSR.