*** HOLLAND TRACK and WOODLINES ***
Date: 8th to 14th October, 2006.
Trip Leaders: Walter & Leanne.

The Holland Track - Background
During the goldrush of the 1890's an alternative route was needed to the goldfields. The original course between Broomehill and Gnarlbine Rock south west of Coolgardie, was claimed at the time to be the longest cart track ever cut in one stretch in WA.
In April 1893, John Holland, Rudolph and David Krakouer and John Carmody set out from Broomehill. They took with them five horses; one pulled a light dray with provisions and a one hundred gallon water tank upon it. Each day Holland rode 30km ahead of the main party in search of water. The meagre supplies found were in rockholes and soaks at massive granite outcrops along the way. They arrived at Baileys Find on June 18, taking just 2 months and four days to complete this remarkable achievement. It was regularly used by camel and horse teams transporting goods and supplies and hundreds of diggers heading for the goldfields. Travelling time between Coolgardie and Broomehill usually took about two weeks.
Three years later a railway line between Northam and Coolgardie put an end to the regular use of the track. Several decades later it was all but forgotten. The expanding wheatbelt overtook the southern half of the track in the 1920's. Expectations of the further spread of farming led to the mapping of a substantial section by surveyors Smith and Ewing in 1926-27, but low rainfall beyond the Rabbit Proof Fence discouraged settlement. After that the northern part of the track gradually returned to the wild.
Except for a few sections kept clear by doggers, the historic route became overgrown and all but lost in a tangle of sand plain scrub and mallee and gimlet thickets. Parts of the route SW of Coolgardie were retraced by Errol Smith in the 1950's using 4WD and motorcycles. In 1956 the Katanning Historical Society erected a memorial near Broomehill to mark the departure site of the epic journey. In the 1980's several attempts were made to retrace sections of the track.
Easter 1984, Adrian Malloy and Graeme Newbey retraced the track between Broomehill and Mt Holland. In November 1992 using a tractor fitted with a timber rake, they followed a compass course wherever traces of the old track were invisible. They succeeded in re-opening the track between Wattle Rocks and Thursday Rock.
In May 1993, a 4WD Centenary Expedition followed the newly re-opened sections led by Newbey and 5 other vehicles.
The Holland Track Radio Trail has now been installed to allow travellers to listen to the history and ecology of the area as they drive.

The Holland Track Trip.
Day 1 Sunday 8th October 2006.
At 8.30 am, Walter & Leanne, Bob & Joy with grandsons Haydn & Beau and Ian & Sheryl departed the Wave Rock caravan park after a very windy, cold night. After a quick walk and look at Wave Rock they headed for the Liberty Service Station in town for last minute supplies and fuel. They took with them 2 Nissan Patrols, a Toyota Landcruiser, a trusty camper trailer and an off-road caravan.

Walter, leading the party, headed down the East Hyden Bin Rd at 5 to 9, a good half an hour earlier than planned. There were many low-profile bobtails along this bitumen track and wildflowers in all directions. Trip Leader turned right into Bushfire Rock Rd and then turned left onto The Holland Track, the beginning of this epic journey. At Emu Rock for smoko, the boys discovered a temple thing on top of the rocks which we later named a cairn. They passed a plaque commemorating that Holland, Krakouer and Carmody cut the track in May 1893, and the Rabbit proof fence built in 1901 by A.W. Canning.

Before reaching the Norseman-Hyden Rd they discovered one on-coming vehicle which decided to move off the track, a wise decision as our party was much larger. They didn't realise at the time it would be the only vehicle they would pass along the whole length of the track.
They continued north towards their destination passing landmarks such as Sheoak Rocks with a navigational marker on top and the Telstra tower.

TL  always concerned of the needs of others called on his radio, asking if anyone needed a toilet stop. True to his word around the next bend was a toilet, balanced against a tree stump (including the cistern) it had a precarious lean to one side so we all decided against it and pressed on towards Wattle Rocks, our lunch destination. We stopped to take photos of a Mallee fowl nest on the track. No-one was home and hadn't been for some time.

We gathered firewood before reaching Mt Holland for our first night in the wilderness. A few spots of rain spattered our windscreens as we drove into the Mt Holland camping area at the base of the hill. We drove to the top of Mt Holland to explore just on sunset. Didn't sit around the campfire for too long as the wind picked up and we could see lightning and hear thunder in the distance. A few drops of rain fell overnight. It sounded a lot worse that it actually was; the wind was very high in the trees.

Day 2 Monday 9th October 2006.
Still in very high spirits we packed up and left camp by 8.40 after TL had held a drivers' meeting to inform us of the day's expectations. We headed off, Walter as always first, followed by Ian & Sheryl with the trailer and then Bob & Co. with the caravan. After the first few minutes it was obvious to all but TL that he had forgotten to turn on his radio - penalties are sure to follow.

The party had morning tea at Sandalwood rocks, the area practically depleted of sandalwood trees except for the few survivors recently planted and still in their protective plastic guard. They sighted one decent sized, very healthy looking sandalwood tree on the track into the rocks. They discovered orchids even though they had finished flowering for the year and the boys picked some quandongs to be stewed and served with ice-cream to supplement their diminishing supplies.

Walter led them along the Emu Barrier Fence noticing that all the recently burnt areas were covered in a vast quantity of wildflowers which he noted in his journal for future reference. They then crossed the Mt Day Rd where there was a visitor's book in an old case and a plaque erected by the Broome Hill Historical Society. A tribute to the courage of John Holland, Rudolph and David Krakouer and John Carmody.

A driller's camp which had been set up practically on the track was also noted in the records. TL called a halt on top of a hill with the Radio Transmitter for lunch break. As they continued through this wilderness area they discovered Krakouer Rocks with the cairns on top and Agnes Gamma Hole, where they further explored on foot. Passing through a firewood area, Walter ordered everyone to collect wood for the evening fire before reaching Diamond Rock.

Trip Leader detoured around a deep water hole, radioed that it might have a few tight turns, I & S followed and found that he was right and that they were very tight turns with the trailer. Bob & Co decided his only option was to go straight ahead with the caravan. Walter, true to his leadership qualities, very bravely removed his thongs and waded through the water to show how deep it really was. The Toyota sailed on through, even though the Nissan drivers thought this would hold back the party reaching it's evening destination at Thursday Rock. The party ate a hearty meal around the camp fire and discussed the events of the day.

Our records show that we had found Walter & Leanne true to their reputation, great leaders, very considerate of those in his party and always of quick wit and good humour. Leanne - we thank for her company and her ability to multi task whilst travelling. Not only could Leanne flick from map to map on the computer, read information to the rest of those in the party whilst travelling to make the trip more informative but also noted things along the track that needed attention. Bob and Joy we found to be seasoned travellers with a wealth of information, good fun and very good company. The grandsons Haydn and Beau, inexperienced explorers but showing great potential, very well behaved and a pleasure to have along. Ian and Sheryl, well we really enjoyed our trip, we would definitely go again and we thank everyone involved in 'The Holland Track 2006 Expedition'. We look forward to hearing more stories of a little boy scout in Africa from Walter.

Day 3 Tuesday 10th October 2006
A bright, sunny morning and Haydn and Beau headed up to the cairn on Thursday Rock after breakfast. We packed up and followed them up. Headed out from our camp among the salmon gums at 8:40 am back through all the muddy areas. The Nissan drivers had a bit of fun slinging off at the Toyota driver. We saw a number of dragon lizards sunning themselves on dead logs. Turned left onto Victoria Rock Road. A 'bit' corrugated in places and went on to Victoria Rock. Holland named it on June 13th, 1893 after Queen Victoria. We had smoko then climbed. All the rocks have water on them.

Moved on to Gnarlbine Rock and well which was discovered by H. M. Lefroy on June 26th, 1863. It was also C. C. Hunt's camp in August 1864. This rock became a well known water point during the gold rush years. In 1888 explorer and prospector Gilles McPherson was saved by an aboriginal boy named Toobey who led him to this well.

On past Gnarlbine Mine, Kangaroo Hills area and Comet Hill which was named by G. W. Ellis during a trig survey of the area July to October 1907. It is believed he saw a comet, thus calling it Comet Hill. Passed Lord Ben's (I didn't realize he was) Mine and into Coolgardie before lunch. Set up camp in the caravan park and all filled in the afternoon as there is quite a bit in town to do. We then met back at the caravan park to go to the motel for dinner. A most enjoyable evening.

Day 4 Wednesday 11th October, 2006
Another bright sunny day and with everyone packed and fueled, we headed out south from town by 8am. Passed over one of the old tramways which had been used to cart wood into Coolgardie for the mines. Burra Rock was one of the Woodline camp areas and we had smoko before our climb. The old farm machinery brought back memories for Bob as he had used similar equipment when he left school and went home to work on the farm. One always has to place a rock on the cairn. Moving on we had a look around some 'historical' campsites. The track followed on and off the tramways. One can make out the area quite well in places with gravel and some sleepers and the metal dogs. We came across an old loading ramp. It had a mallee fowl's mound at the base of it. On to Fishhook Dam to set up camp for two nights. Greg A, Steve and boys were there also, so had a chat with them and set up camp and had lunch. We checked out the dam before going to Cave Hill to explore the cave with the new metal walkway at the base and find the three dams. 1932-38 Cave Hill was the main rewatering and refueling camp on the Karrawang Woodline. The dams are constructed on the Rock slopes. Timber was then needed for the pumps to pump water from Mundaring Weir to Coolgardie and Kalgoorlie. Back to camp, collected wood on the way for out campfire. Haydn and Beau braved a swim in the dam and we all enjoyed another evening around the campfire.

Many thanks to Walter and Leanne for a great trip and to Ian & Cheryl for their good company.
Joy, Bob, Haydn, Beau and Bill the Budgie

Day 5 Thursday 12th October, 2006
Thursday was to be our 'foraging day' and we set off in high spirits to find a few 'historic junk' sites. A few kilometres down the track we met up with two fellows on horse back, each with a riding horse and a pack horse. They had been on the track for about three days and the horses were hungry and thirsty. The first thing they asked us was how far it was to Cave Hill and whether there was food and water there for the horses. Bob and Joy had a lot in common with these fellows as they came from the same area as Bob and Joy's farm. After about 45 minutes we left them and continued on our quest for 'historic junk'.

We reached the first historical junk site just in time for morning smoko. This site is on the main track and it had been fairly well picked over. After smoko we moved on and turned down a little used track (spurline) and drove through some very pretty areas covered with gimlet trees and smoke bush. At the end of the spurline we stopped at a good historic junk site. We foraged around for over an hour examining bottles, files, axe heads, old buckets and Tilley lamps.

At about 2:30 we departed from all that glorious junk and made our way back to the main track. We spent an hour or so searching for another circular track that would take us back to camp, but we could not locate it. So after a busy day we drove back to camp for a lovely windless, balmy evening at the campfire.

Day 6 Friday 13th October, 2006
All good things come to an end and this was the day we had to start our trek homeward. We got an early start and decided to turn off the main track take a circular route for a few kilometres. The track looked a bit overgrown but we decided to venture forth. The track was fairly good for the first few kilometres until we reached Brown Rock. After that it became progressively more overgrown and considerable time was spent cutting and clearing trees from the track. The trailer/caravan boys had a real test of their skills negotiating around various obstacles. It was interesting looking through the rear view mirror at Bob towing his caravan through the scrub. It looked like the superstructure of an icebreaker ploughing its way through the bush. We stopped for lunch at another historic junk site and ambled around looking at bottles. Just before joining up with the main track again we passed a very pretty little rockhole.

Progress was more rapid after reaching the main track again and it was not long before we had passed the horse riders' truck and turned on to Victoria Rock Road. The drive was very pretty with lots of wild flowers, trees, rockholes and granite rocks.

We had no sooner turned onto Victoria Rock Road when we came across a couple of German tourists who were touring the world in a massive twenty nine year old (immaculate condition) converted Mercedes truck. They were doing a little tune-up job. Apparently they were auto dealers in Germany and they decided to take some time off and enjoy life while they could. Their trip was going to take a few years and they had already traveled through Europe and Asia, including China, India, Pakistan and Vietnam and now they were going to spend a year in Australia. After Australia they were going to do the Americas starting in Chile and ending up in Alaska.

After chatting with them for about half an hour we proceeded down Victoria Rock Road, past the pretty Lake Johnston group of lakes and on to the Hyden-Norseman road. This is a good gravel road and we swiftly reached Mc Dermid Rock where we had lunch. Then we hit the highway again, stopping only to pick up firewood and arrived at the Breakaway campsite at about 5 pm. This is a nice campsite and although it was a bit windy, we had a pleasant evening next to a warm campfire.

Day 7 Saturday 14th October, 2006
From here we split up and made our separate ways back home.

Leanne and I would like to thank Ian, Sheryl, Bob, Joy, Haydn and Beau from a really fine trip and great company.